Dress Codes & Style Guides
Formal Dress Fabrics Explained: Satin, Mikado, Sequins and How to Care for Them
The most common formal dress fabrics are satin, mikado, taffeta, chiffon, lace, brocade and fabrics finished with sequins, beads or hot fix stones. Structured fabrics like mikado and taffeta hold a shape, soft fabrics like chiffon flow, and embellished fabrics add sparkle but need more care. To care for any formal dress, check the care label first, steam rather than iron, store it in a breathable garment bag, and take stains to a cleaner experienced with formal wear.
In This Guide
Formal Dress Fabrics at a Glance
| Fabric | What it's like | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Satin and stretch satin | Smooth with a soft sheen; stretch satin has some give | Fitted gowns, mermaid styles, classic elegance |
| Mikado | Heavy, structured satin-like weave with a subtle sheen | Clean architectural shapes, bows, bubble hems |
| Taffeta | Crisp and lightweight, with a rustle and a bright sheen | Full skirts, bows, A-line cocktail dresses |
| Chiffon | Sheer, light and floaty | Ruffles, flowing skirts, warm-weather events |
| Lace | Open, patterned fabric, often embroidered or 3D | Corset bodices, romantic and classic looks |
| Brocade | Woven with a raised pattern, often floral | Structured cocktail dresses, daytime events |
| Sequins and hot fix stones | Fabric covered in sequins or heat-set stones | Maximum sparkle for evening events |
| Beading and pearls | Hand-placed beads or pearls on the fabric | Detailed bodices, necklines and couture looks |
Is Satin a Good Fabric for a Dress?
Yes. Satin is one of the most popular formal fabrics because its smooth sheen looks polished in photos and suits every season. Stretch satin adds comfort and a closer fit, which is why it's used for fitted and mermaid gowns. Satin shows creases and water marks easily, so hang it as soon as you arrive and keep drinks well away. Shown: style 58022, a stretch satin cocktail dress on a corset bodice.
What Is Mikado Fabric?
Mikado is a heavy, structured fabric with a subtle sheen, a little like a thick satin. Because it holds its shape, it's used for sculpted silhouettes, bows and bubble hems. It resists wrinkles better than most formal fabrics. Shown: style 58226, a fitted mikado gown with pearls along the neckline.
Taffeta and Chiffon
Taffeta is crisp and light with a bright sheen and a soft rustle. It gives full skirts and bows their volume. Shown: style 58115, an A-line taffeta cocktail dress.
Chiffon is sheer and weightless, so it moves beautifully in ruffles and flowing skirts. It snags more easily than heavier fabrics, so watch out for jewelry, zippers and rough surfaces. Shown: style 58316, with a chiffon ruffle skirt.
Lace and Brocade
Lace ranges from delicate embroidered lace to raised 3D floral lace, and it's especially popular on corset bodices. Shown: style 57162, a fitted gown in 3D floral lace.
Brocade has a raised, woven pattern, often floral, and enough body to hold a structured shape. Shown: style 58068, a brocade cocktail dress with a bubble hem.
Are Sequins Still in Style?
Yes. Sequins, beading and hot fix stones remain a signature of formal and evening wear, from all-over sparkle to a beaded neckline. Shown: style 58191, a fitted sequin dress on a corset bodice.
Hot fix stones are small crystals or stones set onto the fabric with heat, giving a fine, all-over shimmer. Shown: style 58160, a fitted gown finished in hot fix stones, offered in sixteen colors.
How to Care for a Formal Dress
- Check the care label first. Fabrics and embellishments vary, so follow the instructions on your dress's label.
- Steam, don't iron. A handheld steamer, held a few inches away, releases most creases. Never put an iron on sequins, beads, hot fix stones or lace.
- Hang it right. Use the dress's inner hanging loops so the weight isn't on the straps, and a padded hanger. Very heavy beaded gowns may hold their shape better folded loosely with acid-free tissue.
- Store it in a breathable garment bag. Avoid plastic dry-cleaning bags for long-term storage, and keep the dress out of direct sunlight.
- Treat spills gently. Blot, don't rub, and take stains to a cleaner experienced with formal wear and embellishments as soon as you can.
- Clean it before storing. Some stains, including clear drinks, can darken over time if left in the fabric.
- Travel carefully. Lay the dress flat in the car or carry it in a garment bag, and steam it when you arrive.
Which Fabrics Are Hardest to Alter?
Most formal dresses need some alterations, but some fabrics take more work:
- Beaded, sequined and hot fix fabrics: beads and stones have to be removed along the seam and reattached by hand, which takes extra time.
- Lace: a scalloped lace hem may need to be removed and reattached higher up, rather than simply cut.
- Satin and taffeta: old stitching can leave marks, so letting a seam out may show. Taking in is usually easier.
- Chiffon and layered skirts: straightforward but time-consuming, because every layer is hemmed.
As a rule, taking a dress in is much easier than letting it out, so choose your size by your largest measurement with the Sherri Hill size guide. Many authorized retailers offer alterations or can recommend a seamstress experienced with formal wear; find one with Find A Store.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Is satin a good fabric for a formal dress?
Yes. Satin's smooth sheen looks elegant and photographs well, and stretch satin adds comfort and a closer fit. It creases and water-marks easily, so steam it before the event and keep drinks away.
What is the difference between satin and mikado?
Satin is smooth and fluid with a soft shine. Mikado is heavier and more structured with a subtle sheen, so it holds sculpted shapes like bows and bubble hems.
Can you iron a sequin or beaded dress?
No. Heat can melt or dull sequins, beads and hot fix stones. Use a steamer from the inside or at a distance, and follow the care label.
How do I get wrinkles out of a prom dress?
Hang it and use a handheld steamer a few inches from the fabric. Hanging the dress in a steamy bathroom also helps. Check the care label before using any heat.
How should I store a formal dress?
Clean it first, then store it in a breathable garment bag, out of direct sunlight. Hang it by its inner loops, or fold very heavy beaded gowns loosely with acid-free tissue.
What is the hardest fabric to alter?
Heavily beaded, sequined and hot fix fabrics take the most work, because the embellishments must be removed and reattached by hand along the seams. Lace hems and multi-layer skirts also take extra time.
